If you've followed this thread you'll know my credentials and I hope you'd accept that I know a thing or two myself.Īctually reading my earlier post, I didn't make myself perfectly clear.
It's got to be correct, and that's where people tend to err on the high side instead of taking the chance of cutting too low and having to cut an new nut, or resort to the bone dust/superglue thing.Well if you've got 40 years experience on the job, I'm not going to tell you you're wrong, but I still wouldn't level the zero fret with the rest of them. It's less of an issue than a lot of people make it out to be, as long as it's not cut too low. That said, for acoustics, always slightly higher action on the nut to accommodate harder strumming at open chords and ringing of open strings. Just not necessary, and makes it hard to play 1st position chords, and could present intonation issues on open chords. Actually, my nut customers are amazed at how easy their guits are to play at 1st position, with no buzzing issues.
That technique has worked for me, and all of my repair customers for 40 years, no complaints. When I cut a nut, I cut it so that the action at the 1st fret is the same as the action at the second fret if I fret down at the first. Theory (and reality) with leveling right over the zero is that the action on the next fret is exactly the same whether the string is open or fretted, and therefore.Ī- if you are having problems with fretted notes, you have a major issue far beyond your zero fret action at the first fret on open notes.ī- if you are not having problems with fretted notes, leveling the zero with all others will not present problems. The deal with zero fret is that it only comes into play for 1st position open chords & open strings on higher position chords.
I adjust truss and height every few weeks on all guitars I'm currently using, so buzz is kept at the minimum. No, I use very low action on all my guitars.
0 kommentar(er)
